Department stores, concept stores and multi-brand boutiques compete for the collections signed by mostly confidential creators, as the public loves their precious gray-gray.
Aurélie Bidermann opened her dance with her necklaces adorned with mother-of-pearl figurines. That of the small creators, those who are called “confidential” and whose names are not among the initiated. Day after day, these “jewelry makers” nibble and shake the traditional market. “Because they respond to a real demand,” says Sarah, co-founder and buyer of the Colette concept store.
“Women do not wait for the great events of life to be offered a beautiful jewel, they crack on creations more accessible than they buy themselves. Sometimes, for 1,000 euros (but it can go up much higher), they leave with stones or a diamond. “
As in clothing, small brands abound. And allow women to stand out. After the it-bag, is it going to land the “it-bijou”, the one you must have? But far from resembling the market of the handbag, that of the fantasy and the small jewelry seems relatively perennial in spite of the crisis and in spite of labels which can show up to 15 000 euros, or even more, depending on the parts. “The jewel remains a safe haven, an object that is passed on,” explains Clémentine Melin, a jewelery buyer at the Bon Marché Rive Gauche.
When buyers are not directly solicited by telephone or e-mail – “we receive dozens of requests per day”, confirms Hélène Lassy of the Galeries Lafayette -, they turn to the New York and Los Angeles to find Rare pearl. It is precisely there that Liliane Jossua, co-owner and buyer of the multi-brand Montaigne Market, in Paris, discovered Hoorsenbush by Robert Keith, a Californian label that she is proud to exhibit exclusively.
“What interests buyers is not only being the first to brand a brand, but especially being the only ones. “For this, stores mostly operate on the basis of an exclusive contract that can last for one year. They give the creators a showcase and try it out for a season.
Some outlets order special collections. This is the case of the white and black diamond-studded feathers of Stone, which are only found at Colette, or the Deeva cross of the same brand, made for Montaigne Market. For the creators, to appear in these windows is undoubtedly a springboard. “When Colette took my bracelets four years ago now, I felt like I was walking on the moon,” says Lætitia Cohen-Skalli, creator of Redline.
“Thanks to that, I was contacted by Japanese buyers. “A similar experience for Nathalie Queyraud (Lila June and Félicienne de la Barrette), whose lines Correspondances and Nathalie Queyraud Private, exhibited at the Bon Marché, were noticed by the New York department store Bergdorf Goodman,
“We organize exhibitions and events that make creators known to the clientele and we ensure a relay press,” says Nathalie Lacroix, jewelry buyer at Franck and Fils. As for Montaigne Market, its location on one of the most popular avenues of fashionistas ensures it a window on the world.
In this sector as elsewhere, two tendencies coexist at the moment: hypertrophied jewels and ultrafine pieces. With its modern and delicate style, Stone is one of the best sellers: prices start at 100 euros for a bracelet and can go up to more than 1,000 euros. The spectacular horns paved with turquoises at 18,500 euros and the diamond skull rings at 2,500 euros of Loree Rodkin also know the success.
Broadly distributed, Redline, and its diamond bracelets mounted on wire (from 240 euros), always arouses the public’s enthusiasm. “It’s minimalist, easy to wear, discreet and almost unisex,” says Catherine Neway, buyer for Spring, who also relies on Vanessa Tugendhaft’s gold and diamond refined and discreet gold and diamond bracelets.
Far from being saturated, the area is still home to newcomers such as Delfina Delettrez and its dreamlike jewelery in the form of dragons and other reptiles, ERE by Repossi and its Czarina collection of rings in gold and black diamonds chiseled Erickson Beamon and its pins XXL , Tom Binns and his crystal necklaces. Besides, in the stores, we continue to enlarge the corners.